HVS: a re-introduction; Froggatt 18.04.09

The uphill track though trees and Grindleford village along to Froggatt edge in the sunshine and home again for 3 o'clock.

Wandering over to the downhill racer area, we raced up Allen's slab a vaguely-protected, rightward tending S 4a to top out in the sunshine. Seeing that Tody's Wall was free, a tussel to gain a stance on the block under the lip lead to an easy move up and over and straight-forward finish up the slab and crack. The Crab dispatched the route quickly enough, promtly topped out and I set my sights on the inpending (but not overly imposing) Strapiombante. Climbing up, a feeling of uneasyness set in so; place large cam, down climb and shake out, climb back up and accross to a good rest. A shake out here and two pulls up the higher crack along with two cams and, fail; a rest on the last cam, unable to comit to the last move. After a quick psychological rest the last move gets dispatched and, with another hour to go a sprint up Sunset Slab and Sunset Crack in the midday sun and back down to the train stopping for a cup of tea before departure.

Northern Rail stopping service Manchester - Sheffield. Grindleford and up through the village.

Hargreaves Original; Stanage 12.04.09

One week on and a short overnight trip to a personally important crag results in bagging a couple of VSs.

Day 1 involved a relaxed start; train to Hathersage, setting camp at North Lees, followed by two VS ascents on a mild Easter afternoon. Route 1 was a short slab, offering plenty of opportunity to pause for thought and to place protection. The second proved too much and once again, beaten by a VS, a third route was selected. An overhanging crack splitting into two further up which proved far more of a challenge. Indeed the Crab was unable to follow; a chance to practice setting up a top-rope and clean the route on absail.

Day 2 required a very slow start after a clear and chilly night. Two classic VDiffs gave a perfect warm up and allowed another two VSs to be swiftly dispatched: Hargreaves Original, a formidable offering from 1928 and then a short 2 star 4c crack climb, giving the second a chance to practice some jamming. 

The outing consolidated what had been learned last week in terms of gear placement and belay assembly. However, movement on rock felt more fluid and the climbing itself more challenging encouraging confidence at the thought of the next outing. 

Northern Rail stopping service Manchester - Sheffield. Hathersage to North Lees campsite.

First lead in 5 years: Kinder Scout 05.04.09

A run up to Kinder Scout from Edale station on a sunny Sunday afternoon with the Crab resulted in two successful Severe leads and one unsuccessful attempt at a VS.

Selecting and assembling the rack before catching the train out proved cathartic, as did choosing climbs from guide book descriptions with a look at the routes themselves prior to climbing.

Explaining exactly what was happening to the belayer; before, during and after the ascent, meant that every decision and action was backed up and thought through thoroughly.

The end result was a great sense of achievement in removing any preoccupation of grades rather, slowing down, starting at the beginning and gaining a foundation on which to build.

Northern Rail stopping service Manchester - Sheffield. Edale station to Kinder on foot.