20090508

A break from the traditional; Lakes 01.05.09

Day 1 of the trip of trips gets off to a rocky start,
 consisting mainly of poor memory engagement, poor time allocation and appalling route finding skills. Thankfully with a mere 2 pitch VS 4c selected as a warm up (which ended up as the main route of the day and the warm down also) a definate feeling of tranquility abounds. 















Multi pitch then, a slight change from the ordinary peak 14m short sharp challenge. Here the ground isn't a concern, rather the belay ledge is the thing you want to avoid falling onto. In addition, the amount of concentration maintained, looking after both partner and self, creates a great deal of fatigue. Pitch one is perhaps a soft S 4a up a slab and arete, which tops out onto a large belay ledge. Here, a hanging stance is assumed, ropes racked over a leg, as the second is brought up. A mindful transfer and a step to the left off the belay until shouts from below point out that it is rightwards that the route goes. Right, up left and, a step into spacewith a drop 35m straight down. Wow. Exhileration, self talk and it's done. Rather than fear, the second half is found to be pure thoughtful acceptance of risk and confidence in ability.

20090505

Extremely Severe; Bamford 26.04.09

So Bamford's on quite a busy little road. Having survived a flypast by a thousand TVRs and the like, we got the sunny, if slightly windy day out at Bamford Edge started with Bamford Wall, a pleasant and well protected Severe 4a.

Next it was a short and sharp 3 star HVS 5a Bamford Rib which had hard moves and minimal gear. Really good, slightly pumpy but easily done. After this, with a slight pause and people on the routes that were supposed to come next, the rythm of the day went and a disappointing failed attempt at Access Account which rather than the claimed E1 5c turned out to be E2/3 6a. This turned sights to The Crease which went down very well for all involved.

And with that, the day was done. Not the busiest of days but nicely successful none the less.